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La-zi chicken, another Szechuan Mountain House specialty, marinates its diced chicken and deep-fries then stir-fries it with a small mountain of dried peppers, peppercorns and sesame. The menu lists dishes as either ma-la, traditional or modernist, along with categories for vegetables, soups, cold items and noodles and rice. Other hard-to-find Sichuan dishes on the menu include Qian Jiang-style chicken giblets with pickled pepper and mala chicken stew. Szechuan Mountain House also features offal like pig intestine, tripe, beef tongue, kidney, chicken giblets, curdled blood, and fish maw. There is also a wide variety of vegetables, as well as the popular golden baked salted corn kernels with salted egg yolk, which tastes like creamy, buttery, elevated popcorn, and an expansive vegetarian menu.
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“Many people in the U.S. believe that Sichuan food equals red hot chiles and peppercorn. They think that they should be sweating and crying for help to extinguish the burn, but we want to show people that Sichuan food is more than that,” says Zhu.
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It first launched in the East Village in 2015 and gained attention for its experimental, eclectic approach to the cuisine in New York. Soon after, a second New York City location popped up in Flushing, and a West Coast expansion followed this past summer in Los Angeles. Luo and Wang didn’t disclose specific further expansion plans at this time, but said that they generally hope to keep expanding across the U.S. “If there is a huge demand for Szechuan food, Mountain House will try our best to be in that location,” Luo says. “It feels really satisfying to be growing the company the way we want to be growing it,” Kramer said. In addition to newly focusing on catering, Kramer and Hymanson are planning multiple other Kismet Rotisserie locations, including one slated to open in Culver City this fall.
Rice Chicken
To be the finest food city in the country and might be biased on that count but doesn’t believe she’s wrong. Aviad “Avi” Yalin’s Avi Cue pop-up, serving shawarma roasted on a spit imported from Israel, has taken over the former Tacos 1986 location in Studio City, running as a three-week pop-up with the possibility of permanent extension (follow Avi Cue on Instagram for updates). Yalin began pandemic-spurred Avi Cue roughly four years ago, consistently drawing lines of fans for fresh pita stuffed with shaved and ground wagyu. With a bricks-and-mortar location, Yalin is offering new, larger pita and additions such as fries, loaded shawarma fries and imported Israeli fruit juice. Zhu says that they take great care in the selection of peppercorns, all of which are grown in Sichuan. It is not out of the ordinary to use more than 20 different kinds of spices for a particular dish.
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The New York City location of this Allston Szechuan spot is an institution, and it’s one of the few transplant restaurants in Boston we’re actually excited about. Their swinging pork belly dish has mandolined strips of meat and cucumber draped over a wooden stand, with the whole thing dangling above a bowl of garlic and chili oil. Once it arrives at your table, it’ll first get your attention for presentation, and then for being your new favorite way to eat pork belly. Order that, the pepper lover chicken that has some decent spice without setting your tongue on fire, and a couple of other plates to celebrate crushing the first half of the workweek. One of NYC’s best Chinese restaurants has opened in L.A.—or, to be more precise, Rowland Heights’ Pearl Plaza, which also houses Eat Joy Food, a 2023 Michelin Bib Gourmand.
A reboot of a Chinatown spot that closed decades ago, Hwa Yuan serves great Peking duck, sesame noodles, and more in a massive space on East Broadway. Opening on an interior courtyard of a new shopping and hotel complex off Prince Street, Szechuan Mountain House was an instant hit among well-heeled dating couples out for an evening of innovative food in a romantic atmosphere. It grabbed the second-floor space formerly occupied by Grand Sichuan, itself an early advocate of the Sichuan peppercorns that have become ubiquitous in the neighborhood. “I’ve always enjoyed preparing spicy dishes to share with others since I was a child, which is why I chose to be a chef,” Zhu told The Times in an email. Bring a group to this crowd-pleasing Midtown restaurant and share a bunch of dim sum and Szechuan dishes. Szechuan Mountain House, an award-winning New York City-based restaurant group with a devoted fan base, has landed in Boston.
As the name suggests, the fiery cuisine of Sichuan — a province located in southwestern China — is the focus here. The group’s culinary director, chef Zhi Min Zhu, is overseeing the Boston menu, which includes many of the hit dishes found at the group’s other locations, including the crowd-favorite swing pork belly. The photogenic dish features thin strips of pork belly and slices of cucumber hanging on a wooden rod, suspended over a cup of minced garlic and chile oil dipping sauce.
A koi pond, fake gingko trees and yellow lanterns lend an air of serenity to the dining room, in sharp contrast to the trial by fire your taste buds are likely to experience with several of Szechuan Mountain House’s signature items, which include traditional and modern Sichuanese recipes. For a walk on the mild side, opt for tamer delights like the twice-cooked pork, yibin-style ran noodles and the Insta-worthy swing pork belly. The signature dish at Szechuan Mountain House is liang yi pork belly, Zhu’s modernized take on a traditional Chinese dish. Liang yi, which translates to “hanging clothes” in Mandarin, is intended to evoke the image of laundry hung to dry on a clothesline. Together with a slice of cucumber, the thin pork belly is dipped in chile oil with a wad of minced garlic. The translucently thin slices of pork and cucumber are presented draped over a miniature wooden rack above a minced garlic and chile oil dipping sauce.
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The group opened a stylish new spot at 89 Brighton Avenue, in Allston, in mid-November. Our guide to the best Italian restaurants in a city that has a lot of Italian restaurants. But the most exciting aspect of Szechuan Mountain House lies in the fact that the daring menu hasn’t been made blander for a perceived East Village audience, mirroring the sorts of experimentation and quest for novelty seen heretofore mainly in the new Sichuan restaurants in Flushing — and presumably, in China itself. The original Szechuan Mountain House was one among a raft of modern and more expensive Sichuan restaurants to hit Flushing during the last three years.
Rice chicken also offers fried chicken sandwiches, salads, cup-bap in spicy pork, beef bulgogi and other options, and sides like corn cheese, fried sausage and tteokbokki. The ma-la dishes feature the hot-and-numbing peppercorn that’s emblematic of the cuisine. But not all of Zhu’s cooking features its spicy heat and anesthetizing effect. Sautéed vegetables and especially the dishes from the “traditional cuisine” menu, such as braised pork atop shredded, preserved vegetables, showcase the flavors of the region without chiles. While the focus remains on Sichuan cuisine, along with most of the small chain’s iconic dishes, some recipes and ingredients have been altered for the Los Angeles location to utilize more local ingredients. The signature fried rice is ramified with mustard greens, while a dish of fried lotus roots and celery provides a spectacular snap that you can hear as diners around the table attack it, with a subtle flavor that you’ll dream of that evening.
The 3,000 square-foot, 47-seat restaurant is designed in the restaurant group’s signature upscale style, boasting classic Chinese ink paintings and calligraphy on the walls, flower art, and illuminated koi floats suspended from the ceiling. “Each Mountain House location keeps our core aesthetic,” brand operations manager Ariala Luo says. Stephanie Breijo is a reporter for the Food section and the author of its weekly news column. Previously, she served as the restaurants and bars editor for Time Out Los Angeles, and prior to that, the award-winning food editor of Richmond magazine in Richmond, Va.
In the near future she hopes to use the Porridge + Puffs space for occasional community-minded events such as cookbook dinners for guest chefs or potential collaborations with the nearby People’s Pottery Project. “I really wanted to stay true to our menu and not make any compromises just to please what we thought the local crowd would find acceptable. For us, this is what a modern-day Sichuan restaurant would actually look like in Sichuan,” says Zhu.
In actuality, the ribs should be singular and the bun plural, since the dish consists of a single humongous beef rib, somewhat resembling the sort found at the city’s Texas barbecues. Alongside are the kind of folded, steamed bao you now see in nearly every Asian fast food spot. The meat has been cut from the bone, and it’s tough and gristly from being roasted too fast and too hot, which is why the same rib is cooked “low and slow” in barbecues. A new Korean fried chicken shop that uses rice flour for its coating is now open in Koreatown with a range of styles, sauces, sides and more. Rice Chicken, a new concept from Paul Kim, a former partner in Long Beach’s Ren Sushi, offers wings, boneless chicken and whole pieces available by the half or full dozen.
A stone-clad koi pond and burbling waterfall confronts you upon entering the space. Enclosed bamboo booths trail off into an interior decorated with pottery and other elements, intended to evoke the eponymous mountain retreat. But far from mounting a menu obsessed with the rural or even the urban food of Sichuan, the bill of fare is an eclectic document. In addition to Sichuan standards and Sichuan-themed inventions, it borrows dishes from other regions, leaping from Hunan to Dongbei to Beijing to Hong Kong.
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